Sightseeing · Kirtipur
Layku Old Town Alleys, Kirtipur
Kirtipur's medieval core of steep brick alleys, carved windows, courtyards and hidden shrines.
The Layku old town is the medieval core of Kirtipur — a dense maze of steep, brick-paved alleys, carved timber windows, courtyards and hidden shrines around the site of the former palace. Largely car-free and still fully lived in, it is one of the most atmospheric old quarters in the entire Kathmandu Valley, and simply wandering it is the main thing to do in town.
What makes it special
The lanes climb and twist between leaning houses of brick and dark timber, opening without warning onto temple courtyards, communal water tanks and chaityas. Daily Newar life unfolds in the open — grain drying on terraces, the clack of traditional handlooms, elders gathered at shrines. Because Kirtipur sees few tour groups, it has none of the staged feel of the busier durbar squares; this is a working town that happens to be medieval.
Walking the old town
The alleys link Kirtipur's main sights, so the best approach is to walk between them: start at the central Bagh Bhairab Temple, climb to the hilltop Uma Maheshwar Temple, then cross to the Chilancho Stupa on the southern hill. Let yourself get lost between them — the detours are the point. Wear grippy shoes for the steep cobbles and steps.
Why it matters
Layku is a rare, intact example of Newar urban heritage. To appreciate the architecture and daily customs you'll see, read our guide to Newar culture and heritage, and fold the walk into the top things to do in Kirtipur, ideally around a Newari meal.
Featured in
More sights & attractions in Kirtipur
Frequently asked questions
What is the Layku area of Kirtipur?+
Layku refers to the old central quarter of Kirtipur — the historic core around the former palace and the main temples. It is a dense web of brick-paved alleys, courtyards (chowks), water spouts and small shrines that forms the heart of the medieval Newar town.
What is there to see in Kirtipur's old town?+
The old town itself is the attraction: leaning timber-and-brick houses with carved windows, hidden courtyards, communal water tanks, small shrines and chaityas, and the daily rhythm of Newar life — weaving, drying grain, and worship — going on around you.
How long does it take to walk the old town?+
Allow one to two hours to wander the lanes between the Bagh Bhairab Temple, Uma Maheshwar Temple and the Chilancho Stupa, with stops for photos and food. The alleys are compact but steep and easy to get pleasantly lost in.
Are the alleys easy to walk?+
They are atmospheric but steep, narrow and cobbled, with many steps. Wear comfortable, grippy shoes, and note that the lanes are largely car-free, which is part of what makes the old town so pleasant to explore on foot.
